Katherine to Lake Argyle

We stayed for a week at the Shady Lane Tourist Park just out of Katherine, taking the opportunity to do some washing, some shopping, some maintenance and some sight-seeing.

We had already taken the cruise through the Nitmiluk Gorge on our last trip, and couldn't do any kayaking because the crocs were still around, so we just had a holiday. Honestly, we keep smiling at each other all the time. We feel so fortunate. This is such fun!!

One small down-side, though. I had been constantly swinging down the caravan step awkwardly,and finally my hip protested loudly until I had to find a physio for some treatment. Two

treatments, some changes in the way I do things, some exercises, and all is well again.

In between treatments, despite the problem, we went to Leliyn (Edith) Falls and took the walk to the top falls, a 'moderate' hike – lots of steps, rough rocks, few hand-holds, but really worth it for the swim in the waterfall-fed pool full of clear water.

Edith Falls top pool

We continued on the circuit, which took us up over the escarpment, where we drank in the panoramic views over rocky hills and deep water-filled valleys, and then scrambled down a precipitous cliff with steep steps (no hand-holds), back to the serene lower pool. Bush camping is available right at the pool, with mown grassy banks, steps into the pool, showers and toilets and a resident ranger. We wished we had known how lovely it was – we might have spent some time camped there.

Another swim

Edith Falls bottom pool

By the way, we have neglected to say how pleasantly surprised we were to see the Barkly and Stuart Highways bordered by such lush green growth and many pink, yellow and white wildflowers and flowering shrubs. 

We have also been endlessly amused by the number of termite mounds along the way dressed in a variety of outfits – t-shirts, singlets, burkas, hats, dresses – whole families at times. 

Some people up here obviously think the war is still on. This one appears to be a Japanese sniper (complete with Telstra helmet).

Tuesday May 27

We left Katherine this morning, on  our way to Lake Argyle. On the way, we passed through some spectacular scenery in the Victoria River area – huge escarpments with striated horizontal ridges, ledges and rifts. Tonight, we are camped at Timber Creek. I have cooked up all the veggies I had and frozen lots of dinners, because you can't take any fresh food or honey across the border into WA. It will be just a 2½ hour drive tomorrow, but because of the 1½ hour time difference, we will arrive an hour after we leave!

There is no phone reception at Lake Argyle, and limited wifi, so you may not hear from us until we leave there in a week's time.

Victoria River

Sunday May 19.

Mt Isa to Katherine

As is becoming our usual practice, we left Mt Isa at 7.45 (we used to struggle to get packed up by the leaving time of 10.00 when we had the camper trailer!), heading for Barkly Homestead. No problems getting a spot – all are drive-throughs under the trees and the pool was very welcome. On the walk back from booking in, we encountered a Spanish guy who is walking around Oz with all his gear in a kind of pram on bike wheels. He had walked 56 kms that day, which was corroborated by other travellers who had passed him. All he wanted was a shower and a sleep.

Facilities were basic well-used dongas, but the water was hot.

We got back on the road early next day and made it to Dunmarra. Arrived around 2.00 and managed to get a shady spot (near the overflowing rubbish bins, and no sullage). Not very salubrious, but thanks to WikiCamps, we knew to ask for our fuel discounts – 5c for Seniors, 5c for staying overnight, and 5c for buying >$50 worth of fuel, which brought it back to $1.80 a litre. The donga facilities were even more used and less-well maintained, so we got going asap next morning.

We had pushed on a bit the day before, and this left us plenty of time to call in to Bitter Springs at Mataranka. What a glorious spot! A thermal spring-fed creek amongst cabbage palms, so clear you can see the bottom. A short walk takes you to a ladder, where you get in with your pool noodle (snorkel, goggles, underwater camera if you have them) and float down with the current in perfect serenity past the water lilies, listening to the bird calls. Just Heaven!

Ian took some underwater shots with the GoPro, but the downer was that he had put the car keys in a 'water wallet' and neglected to seal the top properly. It leaked, the remote died, so we are now reduced to one remote control for the car alarm, and he has had to order another one from Perth and hope it gets here before we leave.

Is this Heaven??

After soaking up the atmosphere for some time, we sauntered off, arriving in Katherine at lunch time at Shady Lane tourist park a few kms out of town – still run by the Bates' who ran it last time we were here. A beautiful, quiet park with spanking new facilities. Palm trees and birds all around. We're staying for a week. This will give us time to build up some more fuel revenue (!), get some mail from home and prepare for the next leg of the trip.

My birthday was celebrated with a parcel and beautiful card from my son and his family (puzzle books, pen, lollies, nuts – all very appropriate) and breakfast in bed, followed by morning tea in town, and culminating in a very tasty dinner and delectable dessert at a restaurant. I spent all day running to and from my phone collecting texts and Facebook messages from my lovely friends and family. Lucky me!

Thank you for all your Happy Birthday
 wishes everyone

Monday May 15

Left Duaringa early and stopped in Emerald for four new tyres. We decided not to take the risk of any of the other (outdated) tyres doing the same echidna thing.

Arrived at Alpha about 1.30. Not particularly salubrious, and certainly not worth the $30 they charged. However, the showers were hot and the power worked, so all good.

Tuesday May 16

Next day, travelled to Winton, arriving around 2.00 at the Matilda caravan park. The other park at the pub is apparently nicer, but we have stayed here before and we knew the roast dinner and bush poets would be there. The facilities are basic, and the park a bit shabby, but everything works and everyone's friendly. We had the BEST night! For $20, we got a three-course meal (chicken soup, HUGE roast dinner and chocolate pudding with custard) and an evening of tall tales and bush poetry from Melanie Hall and Susan Carcary. They travel everywhere with their show, and even knew Kin Kin (including the quarry fight – they shook Ian's hand for his involvement). AND – they offered to come and do a free benefit to raise money any time we ask. How's that??!

We walked back to our van on a high – especially seeing it was Federal Budget night. We couldn't think of a better alternative way to spend the evening.

We are smitten with our newly turbo-charged Nissan. Ian has found the sweet spot – 95 kph in 4^th gear and we accelerate up hills with no change in foot pressure. No need for 5^th gear any more. We'll go around Oz in 4^th!

Wednesday May 14

Had lunch in Cloncurry, and got stuck behind a 3-tank long road train of sulphuric acid travelling at 80. At one set of roadworks, he made such a cloud of bulldust that we couldn't even see the bullbar. Passed him soon after, thank goodness.

Arrived in Mt Isa at around 2.00 and set up at the Argylla caravan park (the only one to stay at in the Isa, we've found). Our son, David, is working out of the Isa at the moment, and we were fortunate to be here while he was in residence. He came and collected us and took us out to dinner at The Isa, then up to the lookout, over to the mine where he used to work, and around to see the workshop where he is working at the moment. The contract company he works for has finished their current contract, and he is based here receiving all the heavy equipment, shrink-wrapping it in plastic (!) and storing it. Yesterday he was using a 45-tonne fork-lift to unload 2 three-trailer-long road trains full of equipment. He came over to us after work and we had a barbie together at the van. So lovely to see him and to be able to see where he works when he flies away from home each fortnight.

The new awning stuck and refused to come down, so we had to call a repairer (who came out immediately! - probably because we mentioned 'insurance claim'). Still not perfect, but at least it's working.

Friday May 16

Did some shopping and washing yesterday, and today I'll have a go at getting my hair cut before heading off into the (further) outback. We're glad we stayed for another night. Ian definitely needed a day off yesterday, because he has his compos mentis back today :).

A big, flat country.

Yep, heading west.

A big west Qld sky.

Flat-bottomed clouds at Mt Isa (Lead-bottomed??)

Agnes Water

Had a fantastic day at Agnes Water.

A beautiful day, with excellent surf, so I spent an hour and half boogie-boarding to my heart's content. Tired and sore at the end of the day, but what the heck. I had a ball!!

Ian spent the time making a boat roller for getting the kayaks off the roof more easily. He used the struts from the old annex, some poly-pipe and some rubber rollers. Done!

A tired but exhilarated boogie-boarder leaves the beach!

Left Agnes by 20 to 8 – a record! - heading for Duaringa rest area.

Arrived just after 12 and discovered one van tyre almost ready to blow, with wire sticking out like an echidna. It went flat as we watched. What a lucky escape!

Duaringa rest area is fantastic. Heaps of room around a little man-made 'billabong' complete with waterfall and spotlighting at night. A huge kids' playground, and even four power points on a pole for those who need power. Hot showers, toilets, outdoor kitchen, and all free! It is staffed on weekdays by volunteers and they only ask for a donation. Just marvellous. We are staying two nights because it is the weekend and we have to wait until the shops open in Emerald first thing tomorrow morning so we can get a new tyre. Debating whether to get all four tyres replaced, since all are out of date and we don't want to risk this happening again somewhere remote.

Had a different Mothers Day with a present already opened before we left, a humorous card to open today and a Facebook message. Ian did the honours with breakfast, etc. so I had a little spoiling anyway. :)

In my Mothers Day pressie

Packing up at Duaringa Rest Area

Not a good look!

The big day has arrived at last!

Finally, we are off on our big Lap.

After days of uncertainty, we finally got the call to say the annex had arrived at the Gympie workshop, so we chucked in the final few items and away we went.

It meant kicking our heels around Gympie until 2.00, but eventually we were on our way.

We arrived in Agnes Water caravan park at 6.20, did a basic setup with power and water, ate a frozen/microwaved dinner and fell into bed early. A beautiful day, around 24 degrees and 17 overnight and except for the late start and consequent arrival in the dark, a good trip.

Well, we're all packed and ready to go. Hurray!

But wait - where is the annex roof???
On April 24, Ian took the van to Gympie to get the annex assessed for an insurance claim (damaged in the Bribie storm). Yes, they said, definitely storm-damaged, and we'll send in the claim today (day before Anzac Day long weekend). Rang on Monday. No, the claim hadn't been received. Rang Gympie. The guy who did the assessment has been sacked and we have to send photos so the claim can be sent. It took until Friday for the claim to be received by the insurance company, and to their credit, they processed it quickly so we had an approval yesterday.
"So - have you got the annex?"
"Well, we've got the struts, but the annex roof itself (package 2 of 2) has gone to.........Western Australia!!!!!! We've ordered another one to come from Brisbane."
Did it arrive? No.
Did it arrive TODAY? No.
Will it arrive TOMORROW? Who knows???
Warning: NEVER deal with TNT!
They did the same thing with the two halves of our turbo. Exhaust arrived on time - turbo went to Victoria.

So...we plan to leave home tomorrow anyway and go to Gympie, probably to spend most of the day waiting (a) for the annex roof to arrive, and (b) for it to be installed, which will take about 4 hours.
Not how we planned to start our big trip, but at the moment, all we want is to get on the road.
Who knows where our first night will be spent, but plenty of places to choose, so our holiday will have begun somewhere in the great outdoors.
Can't believe how sanguine we feel about it all.