16 June

Arrived in Derby early and booked in to the Kimberley Entrance caravan park.

Naturally, we had to take a drive out to see the famous Derby jetty, where the tide rises and falls by up to 11.8 metres. Derby is a small town, and its jetty is used for export of ore and cattle. We have enjoyed reading 'Raparapa' which is the personal stories of several Aboriginal drovers from the stations along the Fitzroy River. We have passed many of the stations on our way, most of which are now run by descendants of the original Aboriginal owners of the land.

The next day, we took off in the 4WD and tackled the western end of the Gibb River Road to get to Windjana Gorge. The gorge is in a small rocky range sticking up out of the flat plains. It looks like nothing much. You walk through a tight little slit between the rocky walls and enter – Eden!

This is the land of the Windjana – you may have seen the representations of this godly creature – a big round head with two big eyes and a nose (no mouth) and spiky lines sticking out of its head. This is the creator of all things, and it would be easy to imagine that when the people first entered this fissure in the rocks and came upon the beauty inside, they would have thought it was their very own Eden.

From here, we endured another 30 km of dust and corrugations to get to Tunnel Creek. Here, you clamber over very large rocks to reach the entrance to a cave with a creek running through it. The creek has formed a tunnel 750 metres long, and if you can endure wading in total darkness, lit only by torchlight, you can walk the length of it. In places, the roof has fallen in, allowing you to see the bats, birds, fish (and maybe even a freshie or two) which inhabit the cavern. We didn't go all the way through because it was late in the afternoon and we didn't fancy a possible injury and being all alone in there until someone came to find us the next day.

The way back didn't seem so arduous after all that amazing beauty, but we appreciated a hot shower and a defrosted pre-cooked dinner just the same.

The next two days were spent doing 'housework' (doesn't take long!), shopping, reading, fishing/crabbing off the wharf (no luck) and a visit to the doctor for me, with a perforated eardrum.

Now we are off to FINALLY see the ocean – Broome, here we come!

Entrance to Winjana Gorge

'Eden' through the tunnel

Freshie heaven

Tunnel Creek 

Inside the tunnel

 14/15 June

Travelled to Fitzroy Crossing and stayed at Fitzroy Crossing Lodge.

From there, we took the 4WD with the kayaks to Geikie Gorge, hoping to paddle the Fitzroy River into the gorge ourselves. That would have been possible, but it was a windy day and we would have had to fit in between the tourist barge trips so it wasn't worth all the loading and unloading. Instead, we took a barge trip ourselves and it was amazing – greatly enhanced by the commentary from one of the sons of the female tribal elder whose land it is.

The whole area was once an ancient coral reef, and the actions of the receding ocean and the rivers have carved the most amazing formations and incredibly beautiful gorges and tunnels.

Purnululu

Q: What do non-superstitious people do on Friday 13^th?

A: Take a helicopter trip over the Osmond Ranges to see Purnululu (The Bungle Bungles) from the air.

No need to say anything – here are the pictures to tell the story for us.

Just one word – Awesome!!

The credit card travellers

Osmond Range

The Bungle Bungles

Tuesday June 10

In the morning, we went driving out to Diggers Rest station. Stopped on the way to see the dam which supplies Wyndham, aboriginal cave paintings and the Prison boab tree. The station homestead was just a rough house where we met the caretakers and had a cup of pannikin tea with them. Then we drove out across the paddocks to their billabong and had our sangers. Wide open spaces and magnificent towering Kimberley mountains like something in a western movie.

After that, we went over to Marglu billabong – absolutely stunning! Thousands of water birds of every kind fishing, perching, walking on lily-pads, catching insects – all living in harmony. A magic place.

We drove from there over to the Parry Farm homestay where we had afternoon tea (very nice) and because it was so beautiful, went back to the billabong before driving 'home' and having barra and chips for tea from the pub in town.

Another day of different experiences and magnificent scenery.

Wednesday, June 11

A big day.

We left early for a trip along the Gibb River Road.

First stop was Emma Gorge resort, where we aid our $12 pp fee to enter the El Questro-owned areas. The Emma Gorge resort is very classy and picturesque (no camping here). Then we drove in to Zebedee Thermal Springs. Oh, how gorgeous!!! Little pools (personal bath-tubs) fed by mini waterfalls of 28-32 degree water, surrounded by mossy rocks, cycads and water plants, with massive orange rock walls reaching to the sky all around. You have to get here early, before all the 'bathtubs' are claimed by people who don't want to give them up. Small wonder!

From there, we continued to El Questro. The road to their turnoff is bitumen, but the road in is 16 km of corrugations. You can camp there ($20 pp per night for an unpowered site!), and from there, take walks and tours to the many gorges, waterfalls and swimming holes on the property. We were not inclined to stay, (a) because we wouldn't wreck our van on the corrugations, and (b) because it was so commercial.

We had been advised that Home Valley was a more laid-back option, so we continued on the 'real' Gibb River road – gravel, rocky water crossings and corrugations – to there and had barra and steak for lunch. You can camp out there as well, although the walks and experiences there are not as spectacular as those at El Questro.

We returned to Emma Gorge, where Ian did the gorge walk – magnificent, but difficult – and I stayed at the resort cafe reading and enjoying coffee and mud cake instead. :). My knees are not up to the difficult stuff.

Another marvellous day. So much beauty, so much magnificent scenery. We are so privileged to be here.

Sunset - Emma Gorge

Pentecost River Crossing - Gibb River Road

My private bath-tub - Zebedee thermal springs

Monday June 9

Drove from Kununurra to Wyndham. Set up and went for a drive to see Wyndham - small town seemingly in three bits – the community centre, PO, etc., then more town with supermarket, Mobil servo ($1.75 diesel – no, that's GOOD!), caravan park, and then 5 km out to the wharf area, where the pub, police station, Rusty shed cafe and quirky gift shop are. Bought some prawns from the trawler at the wharf and went up to the Bastion for the most amazing panorama of the five rivers (Pentecost, King, Ord, Durack, Forrest) and river flats ever!

Lake Argyle and Kununurra

Wed May 28

Left Timber Creek at 8.15 and crossed the border into WA. Passed through quarantine without any problems but saw people we had camped next to last night (and had shared our quarantine book with) get caught with a full fridge of vegies. Nothing was done about it except confiscation but they really deserved to be fined.

Arrived at Lake Argyle CP at 8.45 (due to time difference). Saw some spectacular scenery along the way. We set up camp and went for a swim in the infinity pool. So spectacular!

We took a short drove over the Ord River dam wall to the hydro power station, then up to lookout.

Thur May 29

The sun rises at about 4.45 and sets about 12 hours later, so we wake up early and go to bed early. We were out on Lake Argyle in our kayaks by 6-30 am. Glorious lake and easy paddling. Saw a couple of fresh water crocs swimming. After lunch we drove to Kununurra for fruit and vegies (140 km round trip).

Sat May 31

Cruise day today. We watched video of construction of Ord river dam at 1.30 then were taken by bus down to the lake where we boarded MV Kimberley Durack for a sunset cruise on Lake Argyle. $85 per person and a really great value cruise. The highlight was stopping in the lake more than a km from shore and swimming as the sun went down, with wine, beer or soft drinks handed down to us in the water. Magic memories.

Sun Jun 1

Washed and polished the kayaks and Ian washed Nissan. Seeing it was Sunday, we had a roast dinner at the resort restaurant. Not impressed. Wind came up about 11 pm and all the men were out pulling down their awnings.

Mon Jun 2

Up at 6 and paddled out on the lake for four hours. We got close to herons and several freshie crocs. We got to within a me sunning on the bank, until it slid away and Ian followed it with the GoPro and filmed it underwater. Four hours paddling saw us cover less than 1% of the lake.

A magic day, completed with a swim in the infinity pool, followed by 'happy hour' with Brian & Gayle and Dave and Gloria from nearby vans.

Wed Jun 4

Next day, we made a quick 20 km move to Kununurra (Discovery CP). All set up by 10 am. Shopping and went to information centre. No need to cook as the park owners put on a camp oven roast (10 full camp ovens with four choices of meats) for about 150 people as donation to Care Flight. A bargain at $10 per person. A great evening.

Fri Jun 6.

Had a go at fishing at Ivanhoe Crossing but no success. My reel broke and I lost a good lure. Went and bought new rod and reel.

Sat Jun 7.

Drove to Valentine Falls (opposite side of lower Ord river from Ivanhoe Crossing) for another go at fishing. No luck but Ian lost his best lure. My new rod and reel are great. No need to cook again because this time we had a sausage sizzle evening (for Care Flight again) at CP. Met Rick (ex Fire Brigade Gold Coast) and Mike & Linda (from Buderim). Ian stayed on talking to Rick for an hour after everyone else had left.

I have submitted my recipe for camp oven Moroccan Lamb, and have a chance to win a $500 Discovery Parks accommodation voucher. I gave the camp owners a taste – they loved it and are going to cook it for their next camp oven dinner, so if lots of people vote for it, I might win. Fingers crossed.

Sun June 8.

A clean-up day in preparation for leaving tomorrow for Wyndham. Did some more laps in the pool and we had a pleasant talk with Mike & Linda for happy hour.

Sunset Lake Argyle 

Dawn lake Argyle