Heading for Home

HEADING FOR HOME

Monday 29 – Port Augusta

Another long day. We had done our research and found a brake specialist, so called in there first. Talk about frustrating! Nowhere to park, so we went round the block and turned up a street which looked like it would lead to the back of the business. It turned out to be a very small cul-de-sac! The bloke was most unhelpful (didn't have the spring, couldn't possibly fit us in to have a look at our broken brake) so there we were – up a one-way street with a big Nissan and a 20 ft van. Ian had to drive over the kerb, across the nature strip, between two poles, out over the footpath and onto a busy 4-lane highway! No worries!

The next business we tried was able to help with the brakes, but wanted us back there at 9.30 next morning – with the van, that is! Sensibly, we called at 9.30 to see if he was ready for us and found we didn't have to get there until 11.30. All fixed by 12.30 and back to our Foreshore CP for lunch.

We did some shopping and then went out to the Arid Lands Botanical Gardens. Didn't expect much, but it was marvellous! So well done, and sculptures all through the gardens. We had a quandong icecream and some excellent coffee in their lovely cafe.

At the lovely Arid Lands Botanical Gardens.
Flinders Ranges in the distance.

Wednesday 30 – Broken Hill

A good day's travelling. We arrived just after lunch at Broken Hill CP where we had a drive-through site, so stayed hitched on. Good facilities. As at the last few parks, there are warnings to lock up every time you leave your car/van, and to keep the door locked even if you are inside. Snatch-and-grab thieves will open the door, grab what's sitting around and be gone before you can get up.

We have also been told about the latest trick when you're free-camping. Crooks will pull up in their vehicle right close to your door so you can't get out, strip your car of valuables and drive off before you can even catch their number-plate. Even so, it's often a stolen car anyway. We wondered why some free-campers seemed to be selfish by parking around the campfires and tables, excluding others from using them. Now we see why that would be a good idea.

The majestic Flinders Ranges.
We plan to take a closer look in the near future.

Thursday October 1 – Cobar

Another long day and Ian was pretty worn out by the time we stopped. Once again, we had a drive-through site and stayed hitched on ready for a fast getaway. The caretaker of Cobar CP also does the Munna Point caravan park (Noosa River Holiday Park), remembered that we stay there and that I act in the pantomimes, so gave us a big discount! Cobar is a neat and friendly town with all amenities. I left Ian to have a snooze and walked down into the town for a coffee and scones at a lovely gift shop. It was a long walk (7 blocks) – a good workout after days of sitting in the car.

We stopped for lunch at this 'caravan park' near the Qld border
This was the 'camp kitchen'.

Surely that's not the only loo!!!!
If you purchase something at the shop you can actually use the loo with a door!

Friday 2 – Cunnamulla

Another big day. We had consulted WikiCamps and discovered that the park in town was not very salubrious, but that the one 4 kms out of town was recommended. What a surprise! After a day of boring scenery, we came to the Warrego Tourist Park. It is set on the banks of the Warrego river. Judy, the owner, has designed the park herself. Every site is a drive-through with its own lawn beside it, separated from each other by strips of garden with flowering rose and grevillea bushes and edible herbs – all of which you are free to pick and use. The amenities are like a classy ensuite bathroom – polished wood around the basins, recessed automatic lighting, HUGE shower cubicles with lots of hooks. Outside, there is a rustic style camp kitchen, or you can take your glass down to the riverbank and sit around the fire-pit and watch the bird life at sunset. Just lovely!

We decided we have to return, base ourselves there and explore the area more fully at a later date.

From the ridiculous to the sublime.
Compare this to the previous pictures!

Relaxing by the Warrego.
See, I CAN sit and do nothing. :)

Warrego River

Saturday October 3 – St George

After sauntering off from our lovely campsite, the dream was soon over – the road from there on was just horrendous. Narrow, rutted, rough bitumen that Ian swore was the worst road he'd driven on for the whole 17000 kms. We were very glad to arrive at the caravan park. We've been there before and liked it. We particularly like the showers there – big, with glass shower doors, lots of hooks and a bench for your goodies.

Unfortunately, our peaceful slumbers were ended at 3.00 am when the two girls in the cabin opposite began their money-making campaign entertaining the lads, two at a time. Those waiting sat outside, high as kites, yelling and laughing while they waited their turn, until well after 4 am. The cops did a drive-through at one stage and the waiters did a bunk for a while, which made us wonder what else the girls were selling.

Sunday October 4 – Toowoomba

Two very tired and cranky travellers once again set out on the worst roads in Australia, through flat, dry and boring countryside dotted with coal seam gas plants. It was a pleasure to arrive at Toowoomba and have an afternoon nap. I had decided that I was NOT cooking on our last night, so arranged for us to go to the Golf Club for a Sunday roast special and watch the rugby league grand final. Both tired and grumpy, we argued with the GPS and each other about how to get there and arrived so cranky our last night threatened to be the worst of the trip. However, a drink or two and a good meal did the trick, we went back to see the Bunnies triumph, had a good sleep and were ready for the run home.

Monday October 5 – HOME SWEET HOME!

What a difference! The road improved, the scenery turned green and hilly, the air warm and humid and we felt we had come home to the real Queensland.

We stopped at Kilcoy for a coffee from a coffee van near the lake. It was a busy little town, it being a long weekend.

Coming out to the highway from Beerwah, everything began to look very familiar, and we drove into our driveway at 12.15, five months and 17 600 km since we left.

Aha! Nearly home.

Our friends, Lorraine & Bob, had been looking after the place for us while we were away and had mown, weeded, watered, scrubbed and polished until our house and gardens looked like a magazine picture. Coming home felt very good!

Our home - looking beautiful.

What a wonderful holiday – the best ever!

No disasters, no illnesses, no stress, only two rainy days and no Winter.

Now – where to next????? :)

Across the Nullarbor

ACROSS THE NULLARBOR

Yep - null arbor (no trees)

Tuesday Sept 23 - Caiguna

Since we had visited the areas south of Perth before, we had already decided that Esperance would be our last holiday place, so we set off in a dash for home.

The first lap turned out to be our longest day of the holiday – 569 km. We had thought of stopping at Balladonia, but after a burger and coffee at the roadhouse, Ian was good to go, so we continued on to Caiguna. The weather was dull and drizzly (matching our sad 'holiday's over' mood), SSW winds chewed up the fuel, but the trusty Nissan behaved beautifully.

Rough facilities at Caiguna, but hot showers and TV reception. No water, and you simply pull up beside a power outlet pole wherever you choose.

Wed 24 - Border Village

The weather began dull and drizzly but fined up as we went along. We stopped at Eucla for a pie and coffee and detoured down to see the old Telegraph Station once again – even more covered in sand than last time we saw it. We continued on to the border and sailed on through, missing Border Village, so we had to turn around and go back. We were sorry we'd bothered! Power poles were wonky, falling over, taped up and many out of action, the amenities were in an old demountable and pretty tatty, and it was hard to see where you were supposed to park. $25 for this privilege, and then you have to put $2 in the slot for your shower. Best avoided if you have a choice. Travelling east to west, this is a quarantine point. No fruit or veggies, or honey of any kind are allowed.

One light spot was the sight of a helicopter motoring up to the fuel pump for some avgas, then tootling on through the caravan park and pulling up outside a cabin for the night. Not something you see every day!

Thursday 25 – Nullarbor

A nice sunny day. Cool and breezy. 

We stopped at 'the edge of Australia' where Ian did as requested and threw a rock over the edge for each of David's boys, who did it 15 years ago on their way back to Nambour after their time in Kalgoorlie.

When we stopped for morning tea, we noticed a funny noise coming from one of the caravan wheels. Fortunately for us, the driver of the van parked behind us was a mechanic! He, and a bloke parked across the other side of the car park, recognised the sound as a faulty brake, but assured us that would be OK for us to continue on and to take a look at it at our next stop. We cautiously travelled on to Nullarbor, where Ian jacked up the side of the van, dismantled the wheel and discovered a little spring which is supposed to hold the brakes together had broken.

As you do – we sent a photo to our son, who is a mechanic/fitter. He MMSed us diagrams of what things should look like and from his workplace (out in the SA desert!), gave Ian instructions on how to disable the brake so that we could continue on until we reached Port Augusta to get it fixed.

Oh, the marvels of modern communication technology!!

Nullarbor now has motel accommodation, a good eatery, and the usual power poles in the paddock. Now, it's $30 for the power, and $1 each for a shower. Nice facilities, but we've stayed at four-star caravan parks for less.

Friday 26 – Ceduna

This was a short day – only 182 km, so we took the opportunity to stop and peer over the edge of the Bight where we could – without using the brakes!

We spent quite a while at Head of Bight. At first, we were not pleased about the $12 per person fee, but soon realised where the money goes - the walkways they have built for viewing are extensive. You are able to stand looking down into the water and see the southern right whales just below. We saw two mothers with babies quite close to shore. One baby was having a fine time leaping about.

The views from all the stop-overs are simply awe-inspiring. It's an amazing feeling to be standing on the edge of Australia. The land simply stops and the edge is just a perpendicular drop down to the ocean.

We arrived at Ceduna on a perfect afternoon. Our site was overlooking the beachfront (although behind a cyclone-wire fence with barbed-wire on top!). It was a beautiful evening with a gorgeous sunset.

Unfortunately, the weather didn't last. The next day was 34° and wildly windy. Great for the washing, though, which was dry in no time. We washed all our very dirty mats, vacuumed the dust off everything, then settled down to watch the Aussie Rules Grand Final.

Next day, it was still windy, but now a cool 14. I cooked some meals to freeze for the trip ahead. Ian hadn't found anyone in Ceduna who could fix the brake (or who even had that one little spring!), so he took the wheel off again and disconnected the electrical line to the brake to stop it working completely. (Fortunately, the van has dual wheels so we still had three to go on with).

We went for a look-see (didn't take long!), went to the oyster van for some oysters for Ian (which he declared to be the best ever - HUGE!), had fish and chips for lunch, and went to the very nice Foreshore Hotel for Sunday roast. The place was full and we hadn't booked, so we decided to be cheeky and ask a likely-looking couple if we could share their table. It turned out to be a good choice. They gave us a tip - to go and see the Eyre sculptures at Kimba on our way through. We did so, and found them to be excellent.

Ian had a particular interest, because he had been reading Eyre's journals of his exploration across the Nullarbor and found it intriguing reading. (Eyre was an unusual explorer, in that he had a profound sense of the dispossession and degradation of homeland and culture which the Aboriginal people were facing and he did his best to bring this to the attention of those in the city - to no avail of course, but he is to be commended for his deep understanding and sympathy for the Aboriginal people).

We were amused to see this guy having a fish
 over the edge of the continent.
It was a memorial for a mate.

Probably an Australian Kestrel - caught by Ian with his new 30x zoom camera

PERTH

We decided to visit Perth so we could go to the Museum to see 'Treasures of Afghanistan' – a collection of ancient artefacts which were hidden from the Russians and the Taliban and thought to be lost. Not many things, but priceless treasures from several tombs. A lot of gold, turquoise and ivory jewellery, remains of Grecian columns, beautiful glassware, figurines and crockery made from bronze and alabaster. Worth the visit.

We stayed out at Midland (eastern suburb) and travelled in by train ($4.80 each for a day pass), then caught the free bus around the city. We were impressed with the service and with the very pleasant recorded voices telling us which stop was coming up. Much nicer than Brisbane's flat commentaries.

Midland is close to the Swan Valley wineries and chocolate factories, so of course we had to take a trip and collect some samples.

WAVE ROCK

We thought we'd better go and see the last famous tourist spot before heading 'round the corner' and across the Nullarbor, so went out to Hyden to see Wave Rock stopping on the way for wildflower photos. 

Yes, Wave Rock is impressive. Not as big as I had imagined, but still an amazing phenomenon. We stayed two nights, saw all the things on the brochure and watched the footy semifinal match on their big screen on the last night.

Happy travellers at Wave Rock

'Hippos Yawn'

Ornate Dragon

ESPERANCE

We couldn't possibly go to W.A. and not see beautiful Esperance once more, and lucky for us, we struck it on a perfect day – 34 degrees and sunny, so certainly warm enough for me to get the boogie-board into the water for the first time since we left Queensland. The water was pretty chilly, but when it's so blue and so clear and the sand is so white, how can you resist? This is such a beautiful place, when every bend in the road gives you another perfect vista.

Fourth Beach where I caught a wave or two -
10 minutes before a white pointer shark alert!!

Too awestruck to swim.

Stunning Twilight Bay

In the afternoon, we drove out to Cape Le Grand and were even more stunned by the perfection. Lucky Bay must be the most beautiful beach in Australia, but our photos didn't capture it. A perfect circular bay with azure water over a gently sloping bottom for about 50 metres before the deeper blue. The sand is so fine you can't see the separate grains. It feels and looks like cornflour. Add tame wallabies who come for a pat and you have the perfect place to spend a holiday. It's a national park, so no power, but shady bush campsites, toilets and bbqs.

Spectacular Lucky Bay

Hellfire Bay

Cape Le Grand beach

Just to show us how lucky we were, the weather turned overnight and we had 50+ kph winds, rain and down to 14 degrees the next day. Ian took the 4WD to get a front wheel wobble rectified (new front shockies), We ventured out to do some grocery shopping and get a takeaway dinner.

We are sad that our W.A. holiday is over.

Tomorrow it's off over the Nullarbor and a dash for home.

JURIEN BAY

Sep 11 -14

What a lovely surprise this little place is - turquoise blue sea inside a fringing reef, small islands just offshore where sea lions live, a wonderful fishing jetty and a large kids' playground on the beachfront. The caravan park was right at the beachfront, with quite comprehensive shopping centres on either side of the park. The weather was cooperative – warm and sunny.

We took the opportunity to take a day trip out to see the Pinnacles. We first took a detour to see the stromatolites. These are different from the ones at Hamelin Bay.

After that, we visited Cervantes and had our taste of rock lobster at the factory there. It was a bit of a disappointment. We prefer the crabs Ian caught!

We popped in to Hangover Bay – such a pretty spot, which would be a local mecca in the summer, we reckon. We were fascinated to see waves coming in and then turning to run sideways against the incoming flow.

The Pinnacles are amazing! Nobody is quite sure how they were formed, but we tend to agree with the theory that they are the stumps of ancient trees which were inundated when sea levels rose.

We had intended to stay until sunset, but had just decided we'd seen enough and were ready to leave, when we came across a minibus load of Malaysian tourists whose rented vehicle had burst a tyre. The vehicle had not even been provided with a jack, so Ian came to the rescue with our bottle jack and compressor and the guys all did the hero thing and got the bus back on the road. By then it was just on dusk, so we got our fantastic dusk photos of the Pinnacles after all.

Just another day of new and interesting things to see.

DONGARA/PORT DENISON

Sept 8-10

These two towns are actually one small town. It was only a 64km trip to here. The Seaspray caravan park was very like the one at Geraldton – on the beachfront with its own access. We should have been warned by the name – the van and Nissan both copped a coating of seaspray from the wild weather. We put up the annex, but had to take it down again as it was in danger of ripping in 100kph winds. Never mind – we stayed inside, snug and warm and watched the footy!

The Irwin River wetlands behind Dongara beach

This is the rock lobster capital of Australia, but forget about having one to eat – they are all for export. Only one place had them on offer – for $95 a meal!!

GERALDTON

Sept 4 -7

By the time we reached Geraldton, we were ready for a shopping spree. We were sick of the same clothes, and both of us have lost weight, so some of the things we brought with us were too baggy. The caravan park we chose is 6 km out from the city and has its own beach access – rather like a private beach. Unfortunately, the weather had turned wet and windy and the beach was wild, with the sand covered in seaweed and sponges ripped up from the sea floor. Still no boogie-boarding!

We had an indulgent two days buying clothes, fishing reels and caravan stuff, and finally got to have a decent cappuccino!

On the third day, we took ourselves to the Geraldton Museum to see the Da Vinci Machines exhibition. It was awesome! Wooden models have been made from his detailed drawings, many of which you can manipulate to see how they work. The man was an extraordinary genius and so far ahead of his time. The Museum also had a 'Shipwrecks' room where they had on display artefacts from the Dutch East India Company ships which foundered on the coast here, as well as a detailed account of the sinking and recovery of the Sydney II. We spent several hours in the Museum and thoroughly enjoyed it. Ian took photos for his mate in London who did a lot of the original research which led to the discovery of the Sydney wreck.

KALBARRI

27 August to Sept 3

Quite a long trip (for us), arriving after lunch. Our site was up the back of the park, but a good drive-through site. And although the amenities were a fair walk, they were banks of ensuite rooms. We had to pull our kayaks out along the footpath and across the main road to reach the water. This is where the Murchison river meets the sea, and it is quite strange to see calm water, then waves breaking, and ocean in the background.

The bar into the sea is very narrow and tricky and we didn't attempt it, but spent our time kayaking the river. Ian was not so keen on fishing on the first trip, so just put the crab net in at the start. He quickly picked up his interest when he caught two large blue swimmer crabs and a tailor, all of which we had for lunch the following day. Yum!!

We took a drive out to see the Murchison river gorges – quite spectacular. It was obviously a mighty river in the past.

'Nature's Window'

We took a long time to get back to the caravan park because we stopped every few minutes to photograph wildflowers. Each time we stopped, we would find several more new ones. We didn't see vast carpets of them, but found little gems hidden everywhere.

Our favourites - We called them 'ghost flowers'. We loved their 'eyes'.

Some of the wildflowers we saw

The weather turned cool and grey for much of the time we were at Kalbarri, so we didn't get out as much as we had planned. On the last night, we had a great seafood and chips dinner along the waterfront, and went fishing from the wharf, where I caught two big bream – enough for a good meal.