Ningaloo

From Exmouth, we went up to the tip of the north-west cape and around on to the west coast into Cape Range National park. There are several places to camp right behind the dunes, but we were informed that all camps were full. The system is that you go the the park entrance and wait in line, and if a site becomes available, you can go in. We were extremely lucky to get the last site available for the day, and in the camp we really wanted – Mesa – which had access to the water for the kayaks.

The day we arrived was quite windy, but had calmed by the afternoon, so we put the kayaks in and went for a paddle. The reef is quite close, the water between reef and beach is usually quite calm and the paddling was easy. We anchored and tried our hand at fishing. Caught a couple of small cod and put them back.

Next day, we fished from the beach. I caught a big bream and a 30cm dart which we kept and ate for dinner. Very nice, thank you! I also snagged a small MORAY EEL which fought like mad, biting and snapping. When Ian (my hero!) tossed it back, it was swiftly collected by a shark!!!

Mesa beach

Kayak entry point

I caught a fish!!!

Several of the nights were very windy and we had to tie our 'ensuite' tent to the van. Most days, the wind abated by afternoon, so we were able to fish and paddle in the perfect water.

There is no freshwater available at the park and halfway through our stay, we had to go back in to Exmouth to get more. It's amazing how clean you can get with a battery shower and half a bucket of water. You can even wash your hair!

The last day, we drove down to Turquoise Bay where I snorkelled the reef while drifting along. So amazing. The water really IS turquoise, just like the photos. After lunch we took the 'yaks out again. I anchored up over the reef, while Ian trolled back and forth. I caught five cod (kept one) and two parrot fish. One was a big beauty, but they were so pretty, I put them back in. Ian had a frustrating time losing rigs and catching nothing but one small cod on the way back in.

By this time, we so tired of the wind and lack of water that we pulled out a day early and went back to Exmouth to clean up, do some washing and chill out for a bit.

In our element

Turquoise Bay, where I snorkelled

Underwater at Turquoise Bay

Exmouth has some interesting history. It is the site for the Harold E Holt naval communications station which has a raft of towers transmitting a very low frequency signal for communicating with submarines. It was set up in 1967 and an American base was set up here, complete with baseball field, swimming pool, tenpin bowling alley, bar and grill. The buildings still remain (one of them has become the Best Western hotel). Some Americans are still here working on the base. Exmouth also has a memorial to the Krait – the boat that took Z-Force in to Singapore harbour where they sneaked in silently in darkened kayaks in the dead of night to set mines on Japanese ships.

Commuincation towers - Exmouth

Next stop – Coral Bay.